There are oil based stains, water based stains, water and alcohol based dyes, gel stains, etc. Personally, I'd go with tru-oil. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Tung oil is very popular today because of two properties: first, it is a naturally derived substance. Raw tung oil tends to dry to a fine, wrinkled finish; the English name for this is gas checking; this property was used to make wrinkle finishes, usually by adding excess cobalt drier. Their main down-side is that they create a lot of ultra-fine dust. Please make sure you are doing it safely and carefully with fresh air and wearing whatever Personal Protective Equipment you need. Currently one of my favorite finishes is tung oil.

I'd be thinking along the same lines. Dilutents range from traditional spirits of turpentine to any of the new citrus-based thinners to naphtha. Used mostly for finishing and protecting wood, after numerous coats, the finish can even look plastic-like.
I remember the round one that Frank built a few years ago, and I thought that was a huge undertaking, but this thing is really something. But I'm worried about uneven stains, which people say poplar is prone to. As long as your patient with it, it leaves a gorgeous finish. I am not too picky about the brand though, I have used several different ones. To stop this, the oil is heated to gas-proof it, and most oils used for coating are gas-proofed, also known as "boiled". I really like the Windsor chair. Its for indoors and probably doesn't need a lot of protection. Cookies help us deliver our Services. Oak, on the other hand, stains very well. [5] The earliest references for Chinese use of tung oil is in the writings of Confucius around 500 to 400 BC[6][7][8][9]. I personally use an air powered RO by Dynabrade. Almost all instructions I see for oiling or staining poplar seem to assume that the wood looks ugly and you want to cover it up. It is claimed to be less susceptible to mould than linseed oil.[11]. Dilute it with mineral oil, maybe? Related drying oils include linseed, safflower, poppy, and soybean oils. Most of it will soak in, and then I wipe it all off nearly dry. The traditional technique for applying pure tung oil is to dilute the oil 1:1 with solvent, then apply a succession of very thin films with a soft, lint-free cloth such as tee-shirt cotton. Ulrich Poth, "Drying Oils and Related Products" in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry Wiley-VCH, Weinheim, 2002. Thank you Dave, I have been using Minwax brand Tung Oil. /r/woodworking is your home on reddit for furniture, toys, tools, wood, glue, and anything else that has to do with woodworking as a hobby or profession. After the finish is dry, I sand lightly by hand with 320 grit sandpaper. I also outfitted it with a coil hose so that the hose stays out of the way. Tung oil is the "oil" mentioned in the oil-paper umbrella,[citation needed] which is used to protect the paper from getting wet, and to make the umbrella waterproof. I got a board with a good color and a fiery-looking grain that I really like (pic that doesn't quite do it justice), and would like to bring it out more. Wow! Poplar, for example, doesn't always accept the typical oil based stains (such as Minwax) very evenly and can turn out blotchy. The rags must be disposed of carefully in view of their ability to spontaneously ignite and cause a fire.
Tung oil hardens upon exposure to air (through polymerization), and the resulting coating is transparent and has a deep, almost wet look. When I build drawers I usually use poplar, birch, maple...whatever is cheap and handy. Poplar is what we in the paint and stain industry refer to as a “paint-grade” wood. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, More posts from the woodworking community. Love the tung oil finish. When applied in many fine/thinner coats over wood, tung oil slowly cures to a matte/light satin look with slight golden tint. If there seems to be dust stuck on, I will wipe it with a clean dry rag. If you want more of a satin sheen, then when you have done 4-5 coats and it’s nice and shiny, you can rub down the gloss with a bit of steel wool (#0000) and then polish with a cotton rag. [14], China wood oil; lumbang oil; tung oil paraformaldehyde; tungmeal; tungoel, Except where otherwise noted, data are given for materials in their. Most of it will soak in, and then I wipe it all off nearly dry. I don't know much about this. Primary coats may be laid down at a 1:1 oil-to-thinner ratio, and successive layers, if not absorbed into the wood, at higher solvent to oil concentrations. Personally, I'd go with tru-oil.

This technique brings out the deepest color of the wood while maintaining a matte finish. One point on steel wool is that if the oil is sticky at all in the corners, nooks and crannies, the metal wool fragments and bits will stick in there and are difficult to get out. There's lots of tutorials online about how to apply it. Most polymerized tung oils are sold mixed with mineral spirits to make them easier to work with. seat, legs and spindles? That's some gorgeous grain on that poplar! I was thinking tung oil maybe? Now, Poplar is an absolutely perfect choice if your plans are to prime and paint your wood. Heating tung oil to about 500 °F (260 °C)[13] in an oxygen-free environment will substantially increase the viscosity and film-forming quality of the product. So to get on with the how-to part: I generally plane or scrape my pieces with card or cabinet scrapers prior to finish sanding. A final coat is applied fairly thickly (the oil will smooth itself into a glass-like coating) and allowed to dry for two to three days. The Windsor chair is Oak with Maple legs and Basswood seat. If there are tool marks or grain tearout, I will back up to 120 grit. It's actually a pretty similar process to tung oil. Press J to jump to the feed. They are especially sensitive to autoxidation, which encourages cross linking of neighbouring chains, hence hardening of the base resin. [citation needed] Limonene and D-limonene are less toxic alternatives for mineral spirits. Again beware of your rags, spontaneous combustion is not normally explosive, it just happens after you leave the shop in most cases. My old standby finish was Deft Oil, which was great, but they stopped making it so I have been looking at some other options. "Minor oil crops - Individual monographs", "Process for stabilizing and refining tung oil and product thereof",, Chemicals that do not have a ChemSpider ID assigned, Articles containing unverified chemical infoboxes, Articles with unsourced statements from May 2017, Articles with unsourced statements from October 2015, Articles with unsourced statements from August 2013, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 29 October 2020, at 00:52. Enjoy a 3 day “winter spell” and stay warm. This is where most folks go wrong with it, they don’t wipe it dry enough and any thick spots won’t dry right. An oil finish penetrates the wood fibers and hardens inside the wood so the surface of the wood is still what your fingers feel, and however fine you sand at this point will determine how nice your finish will be. The name is often used by paint and varnish manufacturers as a generic name for any wood-finishing product that contains the real tung oil or provides a finish that resembles the finish obtained with tung oil. Once finished with 220, I like to go again over the surface with 320 grit and then blow off the dust well. The three common oils used for waterproofing wood are linseed, walnut, and tung. Is it solid oak? When I sand, I set up a work surface right in front of a nice (powerful) exhaust fan. Copyright © 2020 Ploughshare Institute for Sustainable Culture. [2], The tung oil tree originates in southern China and was cultivated there for tung oil, but the date of cultivation remains unknown. I receive a lot of questions on finishing wood, so I thought I’d try to give a few pointers for folks who only wish to finish one or two projects without buying a whole commercial shop set up for finishing. I like to start sanding at 220 grit on the wood if it’s pretty smooth. [1] The oil and its use are believed to have originated in ancient China and appear in the writings of Confucius from about 400 BC. It's actually a pretty similar process to tung oil. Straight oil is then applied moderately to adhere to the surface and provide a good base for the thick gloss layers. They are fast, light-weight and do a nice job. Now you can re-oil just like the first coat.

The product packaging will usually clearly state if it is pure tung oil. Tung oil is almost colorless and won’t darken the wood as much as something with boiled linseed oil in it, but you can always stain it if you need a darker shade. Tung oil resists liquid water better than any other pure oil finish and does not darken noticeably with age. Agreed with your first statement - my first thought was "best stain is a dark one to hide it!" At this point I’m hoping to get the table finished by the end of March. It just wipes on, dries overnight and doesn’t require a sprayer.

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